Red Valley backing local vineyards in Cappadocia
With countless locations and experiences to choose from – from Gallipoli for Australians keen to appreciate their ANZAC history to Istanbul’s Blue Mosque for the dazzling blue tile wow factor; or the Cotton Castle hot springs of Pamukkale and boat trips along the Bosporus or Aegean coast, one could travel for many months in Türkiye and still not see it all. As I was fitting Türkiye in alongside sixteen other countries in four months, I had to be strategic and consider my budget, my potential for non-stop site visiting fatigue and consider what I really enjoyed doing, even if it does not always tick the ‘must see’ list.
Türkiye Chapter 1: Istanbul in 1.5 days
The entry point to Türkiye from most countries is the popular cosmopolitan metropolis Istanbul but fitting it in around the dates of my booked tour cut my time in the famous city down to two nights and one full day. Fortunately my hotel was in a convenient location and I was able to walk to many sites, get endless views of the Hagia Sofia (the famous pink mosque) from my hotel window (which included various times of my jet-lagged sleep too), eat two fabulous mezze meals and a lunch time plate of baklava and coffee, and even catch the subway to the airport.
Hagia Sofia, Istanbul without the crowds
Ceramic coffee cups and jugs from an exhibition at the Pera Museum, Istanbul
Every hotel or guest house I stayed at whilst in Türkiye offered a free, traditional breakfast. Buffet style, staples included feta cheese, ‘yellow’ cheese (some sort of soft cheddar), tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, sliced pink meat, French style bread, jams (or ‘fruit sauces’), tea and coffee (of variable variety). Other inclusions may be filo pastry ‘cigars’ (like spinnakers with feta cheese and herbs inside), eggplant dishes, plain yoghurt, orange pieces, and occasional oatmeal/ cereal. I found these breakfasts a great way to set you up for the day and reduced the need to spend a lot on lunch (having said that, on our Lycian Way tour, we still ate three hearty meals a day and lunched in some memorable locations).
Jet lagged, and up early, discovering that the local laundrette had not yet opened, I ventured around the corner to the various mosques, easily viewable from outside and, on Fridays not open until after 2pm so I anticipated the crowds at that time and decided to pursue the various art museums until then.
Having drawn a blank at seeing any contemporary art in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, where I had been prior to Istanbul I was keen to visit the much-lauded new (by European standards) Istanbul Modern, which was founded in 2004 as Türkiye's first museum of modern and contemporary art. A contrast to the historic architecture surrounding it, the museum was huge, with transparent walls connecting it to the water on the Anatolian side on the waterfront promenade. The design of the new building was inspired by the glittering waters and light reflections of the Bosporus.
Once I had worked my way through the first security station, I was met with a 6-meter tall, swirling sculpture ‘Runner’ by British born German artist Tony Cragg. The artist has loaned his sculpture “Runner” to Istanbul Modern on a long-term basis. Cragg’s intended meaning is to “show the inner life under a rigid surface, make that energy and motion perceivable.”
Runner by Anglo-German artist Tony Cragg juxtaposed with Nusretiye Sebili Mosque in the plaza adjacent to Istanbul Modern
The sculpture whetted my appetite for the contemporary art I was missing, and I was thrilled to discover that my ICOM[1] pass allowed me complimentary entry to not only this but the two other museums I visited on the day.
After devouring four floors of stimulating contemporary art, I headed towards the Pera Museum, but not before giving in to temptation with a plate of small and colourful baklava pieces with coffee in a bustling area. Despite the cold, I sat outside the beautiful café and witnessed workers, traffic, Roma gypsies juxtaposed with fashionable women with and without various head coverings from scarf to full burqa.
A selection of baklavas
The smaller size of Pera museum enabled a more refined curatorial focus emphasising Orientalism in 19th century art and as a coffee drinker and trained ceramicist, I really enjoyed a museum tracing the history of coffee in Türkiye with delightful, small coffee cups and jugs displayed alongside relevant ephemera. Another exhibition focused on the history of measuring; who would have thought that an exhibition showcasing different weighting devices could be so intriguing? Unfortunately for me, the audience participation provision included a standing scale after which trying out, I regretted indulging in baklava, endless Japanese food and Mongolian lamb… but then I remembered that I had just had lunch, was fully clothed and carrying a backpack: phew!
Succumbing to the fact that I wouldn’t be able to see every famous site in my one full day out in Istanbul I chose next to visit the Istanbul Painting and Sculpture Museum which I admit I only learnt about by seeing a sign whilst I was enjoying my lunchtime baklava. Expecting another small, single focus museum I was blown away by yet another huge, contemporary building and admit that I actually ended up entering a mosque beforehand as it was next door on Google Maps! The mosque, Nusretiye Sebili, not a huge one with queues, was nonetheless stunning both inside and out and the attendant gestured that I could enter if I removed my shoes and pulled up the hood on my jacket to cover my head (scarves are also provided for women who visit unprepared). Inside there were only two other (Muslim) women sitting down and I was able to enjoy the peaceful ambience. From what I gleaned; this beautiful mosque was first built in 1241 with additions in the early 19th century.
The beautiful ceiling of Nusretiye Sebili Mosque
After my little distraction I knew I had little time to waste and nearly broke into a run as I made my way through the comprehensive Istanbul Painting and Sculpture Museum, which, as the title suggests, mostly painting in chronological and numbered rooms (very handy in case you get lost) with mostly modernist sculptures in the open areas facing the natural light. Most of the paintings were from artists I was unfamiliar with but showed similarities with other 20th century European style stalwarts such as Gauguin and Monet.
An early 20th century painting of Hagia Sofia by an artist only known as Said in the Istanbul Painting and Sculpture Museum
Rather than using my Istanbulkart [2]to catch the subway or bus, I walked between the sites, up narrow and sometimes steep laneways, soaked in the atmosphere of people, the cats (many!), dogs, the fashion, the food and, on both trips across the Bosporus bridge, the plethora of fishermen (and one women) with their plentiful catches and banter. I did not make it inside Sofia Hagia or the Blue Mosque but did enjoy a quieter mosque, three museums (free with my ICOM pass).
In the evening I squeezed in a Whirling Dervishes performance, which was only a five-minute walk from my hotel ceremony at Hodjapasha, a cultural center built in a restored Turkish hammam or traditional bathhouse. The mystical Sufi ceremony is known as a sema, in which the dervish's series of mesmerizing turns help them, and the audience, reach a state of nirvana. No photography or filming was permitted which freed up the audience to absorb performance and music rather than phones and cameras getting in the way, and of course, allowed the dancers and musicians to concentrate without distraction. Applause was also forbidden.
I realised that this performance was tailored to the tourist but I was glad to be able to attend it as the performances are daily and I may have missed it otherwise. The performances started with several musical pieces which included singing, playing a ney, a long, thin reed-like flute, that produced a high, desolate sound; an oud, a wooden, pear-shaped lute; and kettle drums. Then the dervishes entered the room. The five men wearing long black coats and tan conical hats came out and placed sheepskin rugs on the floor. Then the dancers knelt, rolled up their rugs, took off their cloaks to display their white robes and started to whirl on the wooden floor. The removal of the cloaks symbolises the shedding of their worldly life. When the dancer is wearing only the white robe he is said to be without fault and ready to dance. Whilst I did not quite reach Nirvana, I felt truly moved and relaxed from this absorbing one hour performance and it was the perfect end to a short but rich experience of Istanbul and the beginning to understanding the varied cultures of Türkiye.
Türkiye: Chapter 2 – Highlights of the Lycian Way.
The next stage of my Türkiye trip commenced in Antalya, on the South coast and a 1.5-hour flight from Istanbul. Hiking the Lycian Way was hot on my must-do list and, after much research I concluded that a formal tour would be the most practical way for me to experience it. A tour provides me with a much-needed break from solo travelling, the chance to meet other travellers and learn from their life stories, a break from endless planning of daily activities and infrastructure negotiation and security in the knowledge that I wouldn’t get lost hiking in the bush! I took part in a Walk the Highlights of the Lycian Way tour run by Intrepid Travel over 8 days. This trail was waymarked by Kate Clow, a British/Turkish amateur historian in 1999 and is around 520 kilometres in length in its entirety. As this would take several weeks to complete and contains some very challenging (and some downright boring) stages, the Intrepid tour contains only selected hikes which gives the hiker the opportunity to experience the different characteristics of the route from beach walks to steep uphill, downhill, forests and archaeological sites. It is not possible to hike the trail at all times of the year; June to August is too hot and in Winter through to April, the trail is covered with snow. Either May or between September and November are ideal.
Ocean view from Cireli,one of the Lycian Way trails
Our tour group of ten were aged between 37 and (I’m guessing) 70s with various levels of experience in hiking and levels of fitness. Our tour leader Onur had immense knowledge of the area, yet didn’t fatigue us with long lectures, only pointing out significant points when necessary. Throughout the week we experienced stunning beaches, mountains, a few challenging climbs and archaeological sites. Sometimes we had an afternoon free and were able to spend it on the beach or could book a massage with a local friend of our tour leader.
The scenery between Phaselis and Cirali
Phaselis, ancient city aquaduct
Local squirrel sunbathing in Cireli
Day 1 hike from Alacasu to Phaselis
More ruins at Phaselis ancient city
One of the highlights for me was visiting the ancient city of Myra, in the town of Demre. The town was Lycian, then ancient Greek, then Greco-Roman, then Byzantine Greek, then Ottoman, with history dating back to the 5th century BC. Myra has survived a number of earthquakes and the large theatre was only recently excavated. Notable are the carved tombs and rock walls around the acropolis hill. The name Myra means The Place of the Supreme Mother Goddess. During the early years of Christianity, the Apostle Paul was said to have come to Myra. During this Christian period, Myra developed as a religious center. Myra owns its fame to St. Nicholas who became a saint after his death. We also visited the St Nicholas Church in Demre which has a beautiful mosaic stone floor.
The carved tombs and rock walls around the acropolis hill of the ancient city of Myra
Ancient theatre excavated in 2009 at Myra with hikers from the tour
St Nicholas Church Stone Mosaic floor
The longest hike was on our third day, the Olympus to Adrasan: at only 14kms this might not seem challenging but as it featured many steep hills, this took seven hours. Beforehand, we were offered the chance to purchase a packed lunch from the hotel or enjoy a gözleme, a simple dish of filled pastry made to order from a local shepherd; most of us chose this more exotic sounding option and we were also thrilled that he (like many food sellers in Türkiye) sold freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee and tea, all using a wood fired stove and hand a hand operated orange juice machine.
View from the 7 hour Olympus to Adrasan hike
Local shepherd cooking Gözleme
Grazing goats on the Olympus to Adrasan walk
Negotiating steep hills up and down mountains was part of most days on the tour
photo credit: Lisa Moran
photo credit: Lisa Moran
View of Mount Olympus from our hotel in Adrasan
Rugged terrain on the hike to Aperlai ancient city
One of the many raised tombs on the beach at Aperlai
View from the front of the boat we took back from the Aperlai hike
Another highlight was the lunch on our last full day of hiking. After visiting a Roman aquaduct at Delikkemer we went via mini bus to a small ancient village in Sidyma, and walked to a small local widow's house where we were treated to a huge spread of mostly vegetarian dishes made from locally grown produce including wild pistachios. Perhaps as a surprise or a coincidence, in walked Kate Clow, the founder of the Lycian Way waymarking! Having researched the trail beforehand I was aware of her work and was thrilled to meet her and see the projects she had with young volunteers helping to develop the trail further and assist with building infrastructure.
The wall of an early Roman aqueduct at Delikkemer
Some of the many dishes we enjoyed in our feast at Sidyma
Kate Clow, who initiated the waymarking of the Lycian Trail in 1999
View from hotel window at Simena; to the left is a small restaurants where it was common for the chef to go into the water to catch fish inbetween cooking.
The view from the steep hill between Sidyma and Kabak
One of the many cats that frequent hotels in Türkiye; view from hotel window:Kabak
Türkiye: Chapter 3 – Cappadocia:
Having been looked after so well by our Lycian Way Leader Onur, who assisted us all with our departures which included finding the right bus to the airport or other parts of Türkiye, I had a sudden panic attack once on the airport bus. I’d lost my interpreter, company on hikes and people to have an end of day drink and meal with. As a solo traveller one has to quickly get over these insecurities and both soldier on and remind myself of the benefits of solo travel. Fortunately in Göreme, my next destination, in the region of Cappadocia, most people are tourist friendly (mostly in the hopes of selling you something) and speak some English. I had five nights and four days to hike, explore the region and rest and research my next destination.
The view from my cave hotel rooftop; most hotels in Cappadocia are in caves and have cats as regular visitors or residents!
Another view from the hotel rooftop with Red Valley in the distance
There were no shortage of tourist operators in Goreme, and every staff member at my hotel did their best to try to sell me a tour or balloon ride. Having been on and off a bus for the last few days I was keen to walk again, and, with a bit of research and use of google maps, I realised I could hike to three of the local sites in one day. If I’d hiked for seven hours in one day along the Lycian Way with steep inclines, I could do three in Cappadocia, I surmised. Beyond the tourist outlets and off the main road, I headed towards Pigeon Valley, enjoying the views of local vineyards against the background of the famous fairy chimney mountains and only seeing three other people on the half hour walk. Just as I arrived in the valley, a tourist bus pulled up and people crowded at the viewing point snapping selfies, perused the nearby souvenir stand and purchased drinks before piling back on the bus. Not having done any extensive research, I wondered if the steep trail down from the lookout point lead anywhere and decided to take a chance while everyone else remained above.
PIgeons at, um, Pigeon Valley
Pigeon valley's Evil Eye Talisman: an evil eye is fixed to anything perceived to attract greed, envy or ill will to ward off evil
Cave formation at PIgeon Valley
Once down in the valley, I found the landscape lush, green and quiet except for the busy chirping of birds nearby and only a few people passed me as I walked along towards my next site: the Castle of Uçhisar. Pigeon Valley is so-called as the pigeons are housed in the caves and in the past their manure was collected and used to fertilised gardens. I wondered why we don’t do the same in other countries and tend to see pigeons and their poo as a nuisance.
Pigeon Valley - down in the actual valley
A short walk took me to the strange monolithic structure that stood out against the flat surrounding turf. The Uçhisar Castle is sixty metres high and said to be the highest point in the region making the rock formation visible from some distance away. The castle has numerous underground passageways and rooms which are now blocked or impassable but were once residential areas perhaps in Byzantine times.
Uçhisar Castle side view
In the centre of the town a tunnel extends for about 100 metres below some of the houses. It was cut out of tuff (an appropriate name for a type of rock) in earlier times and was said to have served as a link from the castle-fortress to the outside world and as a way of protecting their water supply.
Uçhisar Castle
After exploring the summit views around the castle, I ventured on to Love Valley, so named because of the phallic rock formations that fill this huge valley (I guess a man named it!). It seemed quite surreal to be viewing this huge valley of phalluses with surprisingly not that many tourists, just a few campers who parked their vans perilously close to the cliffs. It does seem bizarre that erosion of volcanic ash over sixty million years has created these unique shapes and apparently it is a popular location for marriage proposals!
Love Valley with its unmistakable phallic forms
On my second day I surmised that I could again hike to more of the hero sites of Cappadocia without the need for an expensive tour and I donned my backpack and set off towards the Red and Rose Valleys, also walking distance from Göreme. Red Valley is actually a series of interconnected valleys in between the towns of Göreme and Çavuşin. I needed to pass the horse riding and quad bikes to reach the wide-open areas of the Red Valley from which I was able to walk up a few steep hills, view some of the ancient orthodox churches (perhaps Grape Church and/or Cross Church from my later research). My experience on the Lycian Way and sensible donning of hiking boots helped me to avoid slipping or skidding on the rough and steep terrain.
Red Valley with vineyards
Red Valley’s distinctive landscape has been caused by thousands of years of geological formation. The volcanic ash that showered from nearby mountains, once settled and formed light, porous rock called “tuff.” Rain and wind have eroded away the soft rock, leaving behind the swirling cliffs and fairy chimneys.
Red Valley was first developed during the Byzantine period, during the renaissance of the Middle Byzantine Period (900–1100 AD). The Byzantine Greeks developed the valley’s agriculture and cave churches. They carved several kilometers of water channels, dug large cisterns, and terraced the valley floors. Such intensive agricultural investments allowed for a significant population to dwell in the valley. They also carved kitchens, beehives, and pigeons houses into the landscape. Many of these agricultural feature could be seen from my hike through the valleys.
The advanced irrigation system was largely abandoned during the Ottoman Empire. Today, Turkish farmers continue to cultivate their private fields, coexisiting with the ownership of Red Valley as part of the Göreme National Park.
Red Valley with distinctive fairy chimney rocks
Rose Valley
The rich textures of Rose Valley, viewable from Goreme
In addition to viewing the main valleys in Cappadocia, to escape the madding crowds, especially at the Goreme Open Air Museum, I sought out some hidden churches, many being quite off the beaten track. Often this meant walking up steep hills in remote locations or using google maps if signage was infrequent.
Although Turkiye is now a predominantly Muslim Country, its early history is Christian. The churches in the Göreme region are said to be Eastern Orthodox. At around the 4th century, it was discovered that the soft rocks of Göreme could be easily carved out to form houses, churches, and monasteries. These Christian sanctuaries contain many examples of Byzantine art from the post iconoclastic period. The frescoes inside that are in varying states are a unique artistic achievement from this period.
During the iconoclastic (725–842) the decoration of the many sanctuaries in the region was held to a minimum, usually symbols such as the depiction of the Christian. After this period, new churches were dug into the rocks, and they were richly decorated with colourful frescoes. With its multiple caves and other hiding places, Göreme in Cappadocia became something of a refuge for Christians fleeing persecution from the 4th Century onwards.
El Nazar Church is one of Cappadocia’s most iconic cave churches. Carved into an isolated fairy chimney, the church stands in a valley just around the corner from Göreme. This church dates to the late 900’s, a period of Byzantine political expansion and cultural renaissance. El Nazar is a fairly typical Cappadocian cave church as it has a small, frescoed, cross-shaped church carved into a fairy chimney. When I visited, I was the only occupant and I enjoyed my solitude, unlike at the nearby Göreme Open Air Museum, which, a regular stop for tour buses, attracts thousands of visitors per day. It took a steep walk up a hill during which an elderly couple stopped their car to offer me a ride.
Entry point to El Nazar Church with its many steps
El Nazar Church fresco
El Nazar Church fresco and interior
El Nazar Church
Another church I visited is Aynali Kilise, which translates as the Symmetrical or Mirror Church. It is so called because of its geometric ornamentations, mirrored on the opposite walls.
The inconspicuous entry point to Aynali Kilise church
Having done no research into the church at all except for its location, I was in for a surprise and a challenge. For the price of my ticket, the custodian handed me a torch, which was vital as many of the rooms were in pitch darkness. The entrance to the church is through a small side room. The church, carved into the Cappadocian rock, has a nave and two aisles. Its barrel vault is supported by four columns with solid bases. The church's interior is decorated with simple geometric designs in red and white. By the analysis of these patterns, the researchers speculated that the entire religious complex was built in the 11th century. From the church, you can go to the next, spacious rooms, decorated in a similar style. Only later did I read that there was imagery of a scorpion.
Interior of first room of Aynali Kilise church
Interior Aynali Kilise church
Detail of cross decoration in Interior of first room of Aynali Kilise church
Holes possibly used as either beehives or for pigeons
Narrow tunnel lit by torch in Aynali Kilise church
To the next room leads an opening, which in ancient times was closed by a millstone. This system is also known from many underground cities in Cappadocia. From here you can climb to a higher floor, through a narrow and dark staircase cut into the rock. At this point I was unsure as to whether or not to continue into the narrow and dark tunnel. The couple before me opted out and headed downstairs but I decided that I would need to conquer my fear of claustrophobia to explore further and, squatting down, torch in hand I made my way through the tunnel to the larger room. The hall located above was used as a dovecote, as evidenced by numerous niches in its walls. Another passage, down the tunnel, leads from here to the room located behind the church. I pondered how the congregation would have all had to pass through these narrow tunnels in order to attend some sort of service in the 10th or 1th century and could only assume people were much shorter then.
One of the many cats who populate the streets, cafes and hotels in Goreme.
View from my hotel window into the courtyard around 6am
Early morning balloon viewing from my cave hotel rooftop
My tips for Türkiye:
· Eat the food! It’s not spicy and you could easily eat vegan or vegetarian; one of my all-time food highlights would have to be the spread put on by a rural widow in Sidyma, on the Lycian Way. Almost every dish was vegan and she had used local vegetables, nuts and herbs such as locally grown pistachio nuts that our tour-leader showed us growing in the wild on one of our hikes. The sweet stores are a feast for the eyes and the baklava is fabulous (even if you're not a sweet fan!). If you love fish and hate the prices you will love Türkiye. A staple on the menu is locally caught Sea Bass. A whole one on your plate is around the same price as chicken or vegetables. Almost everywhere sells freshly squeezed orange or pomegranate juice; both were excellent. Oranges are of excellent quality and it is a common sight to see a shepherd on the side of the road with his big silver juicer ready to juice several oranges for you.
· Booze: Wine in Cappadocia was excellent but somewhat unreliable down south; local beer is always reliable and sold in most small supermarket/convenience stores; don’t expect all restaurants to serve alcohol; if it’s important to you, check first. A good idea is to watch the tables and see what people are drinking (or, of course you could ask). And if you’re there on election day, alcohol is not permitted to be served by the government!
· Public transport: do your research first online but don’t be afraid to ask for help, as instructions are not always in English; plan heaps of time to get to airports as they are all located long distances from the main cities and often encounter heavy traffic. If travelling solo, In Istanbul, buy an Istanbulkart (a travel card like Myki) at the airport (if you can work out how), load it up and then take one or more subway trains to your central destination. This will save you heaps!
· In cities, take care crossing roads; cars frequently drive through red lights; on the other hand, jaywalking is often acceptable if it appears safe.
· Money: Cash is King; I use the xe.com app to get an idea of what things are worth and try to withdraw the equivalent of a few hundred $AUD at a time to avoid all the extra withdrawal fees. Even hotels often expect cash and along the Lycian Way I found ATMs were infrequent. Tipping is optional in restaurants but it is nice to round things up and all tips are appreciated. In touristed areas such as Cappadocia, prices are often quoted in Euro so it’s handy to have your currency App ready to give you an idea of what things really cost.
Cave churches at Red Valley, Cappadocia with orange juice vendor
References:
https://www.cappadociahistory.com/churches
[1] International Council of Museums [2] a contactless smart card for fare payment on public transport in Istanbul.