Biel/Bienne: industrial in a good way

The Cité du Temps – French for the City of Time – is nestled in the heart of Biel, the world's watchmaking capital.

Rotonde, now a restaurant, was built in 1932 as a Volkshaus (People's house) and renovated in the 1980s. It is now used as a restaurant. Designed by Eduard Lanz, it belongs to the era known as "Red Biel": under the Social Democratic government with Guido Müller as city president.

Biel/ Bienne has never been on the top of the list for must-see Swiss cities; Wikipedia describes it as ‘an industrial town in Switzerland. It is in the part of Switzerland named Bern and near the city also named Bern. The town is known for many companies that make watches and machines.’

All the above is true. But that’s why I loved it! After visiting several historically charming Swiss cities with old town charm I was quite surprised, when on emerging from the train station (which in itself is worth a visit), to see an information wall comparing the city to New York City in terms of architecture and history and a strange metal sculpture with figures appearing to be falling.

Built in 1929 and renovated in 2021, Atlantic House was a residential complex in the style of Biel Modernism. The building was legally recorded in the canton's building inventory as "worthy of protection" and belong to building group T (Biel, Bahnhofquartier).

I was refreshed to be seeing something other than pretty old town (18th century) charm, which I had already experienced in St Gallen, Bern, parts of Basel and various Italian cities. Then I noticed some striking Bauhaus and Art Deco buildings, all within the first block outside the station. Then I ‘got it’. Most people visit Swiss cities to see old town charm, but they fail to see the beauty in early to mid-20th century architecture. I recently read of two people who left Berlin to move to Biel/Bienne and I can see why; both cities have a certain gritty charm although I’d argue that they are quite different in other ways and Biel is definitely smaller and has more in the way of nature with mountains and lakes. Biel is an industrial city, but you don’t see factories belching smoke as most of the industry now is in watch and clock making.

The city experienced economic hardship both in the 1920s with the world economic crisis and again in the 1970s and 80s and many people left the city, and whilst many buildings of these times were abandoned due to lack of funds to either restore or demolish them it means that they exist now and can be appreciated for the significance of their architectural styles. Biel is even recognised as having the most Bauhaus buildings outside of Tel Aviv (Israel). Some of the 20th century architecture is being preserved and repainted giving buildings a new lease of life and Biel was awarded the Wakker Prize in 2004 by the Swiss Heritage Society for the conservation of its 20th century buildings, especially the ‘new construction’  ones from the 1920s and 30s. One such building is the Grand Garade Du Jura that I noticed walking around the city on my first day in town.

Jurahaus (Or Jura Garage) today with its new lick of paint.

The Jura Garage was completed in 1929 and designed by architect Eduard Schmid but later that year the world economic crisis hit, and Biel suffered. The watch industry was affected dramatically and a third of Biel became unemployed. The city of Biel, under the leadership of the socialist mayor Guido Müller, decided to collaborate with USA and build and operate an automobile assembly plant in the city for General Motors. With the help of an investment of two million francs, more than 300 jobs were created. The Ford car brand was marketed in the Grand Garade Du Jura building from 1931 as the main representative for Biel – Seeland and the Bernese Jura.  After only six months of construction, the factory was completed in 1936. 

Jurahaus, a different angle.

General Motors Switzerland SA was founded on May 2, 1935, and the first car was a Buick Series 41 which was revealed on February 5, 1936. City officials kept their promise of funding the factory on their own. GM made small rent payments, and it benefitted from tax breaks during its first five years in Switzerland. Around 969 cars were built in 1936. Chevrolet and Opel represented 321 and 318 units, respectively. The remaining volume was split between Buick, Oldsmobile, La Salle, and Vauxhall. Some parts were shipped over from the United States, including body panels and mechanical parts. Other components were sourced locally. Headlight lenses came from a company in Geneva, batteries came from the Vaud canton, glass came from a firm in Lausanne, and the clocks were, of course Swiss-made.

Evidence of the car industry in the Biel/ Bienne History Museum

World War II had a devastating effect on Europe, and only 979 cars were built in 1940, including six Cadillacs with only 98 cars built in 1941. Between 1942-45, instead of building cars, Chevrolet limousines assembled before the war were converted into pickup trucks by cutting out the sheet metal above the beltline. The Red Cross rented part of the factory, while the remaining workers helped support the war effort. Switzerland was neutral, and it was never attacked, but it mobilized up to 850,000 men and women at the height of the conflict. The upholstery department made bags for soldiers and the welding department put together ammunition cases, and some workers even repaired train cars.

After the war, the gas station from the Grand Garade Du Jura building and the large canopy were added in 1947. In the same year, General Motors bought the plant from the city of Biel.

The building was renovated and painted in 2002. In 2003, the building was legally listed in the building inventory of the Canton of Bern as "worthy of protection", protected by the contract of 15 October 2001. Today, the building is also a centre of cultural events.

The red "Pilz" (tram shelter) on the Zentralplatz, Biel, built in 1927.

Due to their form also referred to as "Pilze" (mushrooms) in Biel/Bienne, the former tram stop shelter on the Zentralplatz/Place du Centrale is one of these protected ones built during the period of "Red Biel/Bienne".

After the tramways were converted to trolleybus operation in Biel/Bienne in the 1940s, the station kept its original purpose and operates as bus stop until. In 2001 it was moved a few meters on the occasion of the redesign of the central square. It has been renovated in 2020.

The Cité du Temps building with one of The Apollo 13 Lunar Modules in the foreground.

The Cité du Temps with bicycle racks and smart car parks for staff

In addition to cars, Biel is renowned for watches. Buzz Aldrin famously wore an OMEGA watch when he stepped on the moon in 1969 and the Omega headquarters are in Biel. You can find out more about the history of Omega and Swatch at Cité du Temps (City of Time). La Cité du Temps operates under the management of The Swatch Group Ltd, the world leader in finished watches, bringing together, among other companies, 17 watch brands such as: Breguet, Harry Winston, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Léon Hatot, Omega, Longines, Rado, Union Glashütte, Tissot, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Swatch, and Flik Flak. The building itself is groundbreaking in its design, by Japanese architect and Pritzker Prize winner, Shigeru Ban.  The large building is snake like and joins the museums with the administrative side seamlessly.

There is a staggering amount of history within the Omega Museum. In particular is the assistance Omega provided for the Apollo 13 Mission. To read more about the significance of the Speedmaster Professional chronographs that played a vital role in the crew’s safe return home, read more here.

The Cité du Temps with the Omega Show Room

The Cité du Temps with one of the Apollo 13 Lunar Modules

I spotted some of my swatches from the 1990s!

The Cité du Temps Swatch Museum selfie!

Outside of the main CBD, Biel is quite charming, clean and green with numerous parks and forests and the famous Lake Biel. I was fortunate to be able to spend a week in the city which enabled me to take two-day trips to different cities (Lausanne and Basel) on the efficient Swiss train network using my Swiss Pass (expensive but convenient) and take a hike between vineyards along Lake Biel.

Hiking between vineyards along Lake Biel

Holiday makers used the lake for water activities such as swimming and kayaking. As I was on a Workaway, house and pet sitting, I stayed in a home in a residential neighbourhood and was able to enjoy viewing the backyard vegetable gardens of my neighbours. I also discovered the at the apartment was adjacent to a cemetery (tick!) and next to the cemetery was a small forest (double tick!) so there was always plenty to do. The Swiss use bicycles more than Australians and I gingerly tried out cycling around the neighbourhood using one of my host’s bikes.

Sculptural gravestones at the Biel/ Bienne Cemetary

Images from Taubenloch Gorge

Another delightful hike in the area that I enjoyed is the Taubenloch Gorge and the walk beyond to the charming town of Frinvillier. The Gorge is one of the most popular excursion destinations in the region. It is mostly accessible with lush walkways, caves and overhanging rocks. There is also 150 million years of geological history with geological evidence that fish and other creatures lived in the Jurassic Sea here.

Two views of the 1960s building used as the Congress Centre for events

The Swimming Pool of the Congress Centre for events

Heading back into the city was easy using the local trolley bus and I sought out the architecturally impressive (but difficult to photograph) Congress Centre for a photo opportunity. The Congress Centre is a major architectural feature of modern Biel/Bienne. Designed by Max Schlup between 1961 and 1966, it was renovated in 2000 - 2002 by Rolf Mühlethaler. Its suspended roof is one of the largest in Europe. The Congress Centre serves as a conference centre, concert hall and boasts an indoor pool and fitness facility, which I was able to see from outside. The tower houses several offices. When I visited it was being used for a Chess competition. As it has a clever underground carpark, instead of cars, a large plaza is seen adjacent to the building and a strange building known as Chessu (German) or La Couple (French) , and sometimes known in German as Gaskessel as the domed building was once a gas-works. It is now an autonomous youth centre and also an alternative performing arts centre.

Chessu

It could easily have been demolished once it ceased to be used as a gas works except that in 1968, 200 young people from Biel took part in a sit-in in solidarity with young people from Zurich following the Globus riot and in turn demanded an autonomous youth centre. The Biel authorities then decided to keep one of the two disused gas plants in the youth city. After two years of negotiations, the city of Biel gave permission to use the premises and it became as self-managed concert hall, known as the Autonomous Youth Centre. It has faced risk from the possibility of residential development in the area but at this stage it is still operating.

I was so taken away with photographing the mid-century buildings, that I had almost forgotten about the existence of Biel’s own old town, so I decided to seek it out after an afternoon in the city. The town of Biel was built by the Prince-Bishop of Bale between 1220 and 1230 and the old town is the smallest part of Biel with only 9 hectares (22 acres) making it appear less significant than old towns in other Swiss cities. Most buildings there still look as in the 18th century. 

Old town figures and architecture

After a quick walk around and passing on the idea of dinner in the area (tourists flock to the old towns which puts up meal prices) I emerged back in the main city where the locals were and had to look twice; it was a Tiki Bar. A quick look inside was enough to make me stay; the people, the affordable drinks, the décor and above all, the retro music were refreshing. The patrons appeared to be local and knew each other. After I gave an acknowledging pat to a dog outside, I could tell that this was a place where everyone was welcome. I intended to return on another day, but, like many bars and restaurants in Switzerland, it was closed on Sunday through to Wednesday.  Some say that Biel is more friendly than other Swiss cities.

Joyful moments of Workaway in Biel/Bienne

The Cosmos bike, another industry in Biel; image from the Neues Museum, Biel.

Unlike other Swiss cities , Biel/Bienne is bilingual and all signs are in both French and German (but rarely English!) About 57% of the people in Biel speak German as their mother tongue and 43% speak French. Whilst travelling that created a bit of guesswork when greeting people. Which language to use? 

Bauhaus style apartments in the CBD