Ayia Thekla, on the beach
If you’re a visitor to Cyprus, you’d need to be blind to avoid stumbling into a church or other place of worship on almost every corner. The most common type is the Orthodox church, with painted icons inside, often made from stone but sometimes in Greek style painted blue and white concrete. Christianity makes up 73% of the population of the island and whilst most Greek Cypriots, and thus the majority of the population of Cyprus, are members of the autocephalous Greek Orthodox (Church of Cyprus), most Turkish Cypriots are officially Sunni Muslims. Whilst it would be a major task to list all 500+ churches, I have focused on a few that I visited in the Famagusta region of Ayia Napa and Protaras.
Ayioi Anargiroi Church
After an epic 20 hours of flight and navigation of unsigned roads in a hire car in Ayia Napa, I couldn’t wait to stretch my legs on my first proper day out. My motivation for visiting Ayia Napa was not to engage in its renowned clubbing culture but to seek out the rocky cliffs and turquoise waters of Cape Greco, a short, fifteen-minute drive east. Whilst driving to my destination had bonuses, I found myself trying hard not to gaze off to the stunning views of the sea as I focused on keeping within my lane along the narrow road. Rather than driving all the way to the caves and church I opted to park in the first carpark nearby and walk the remaining way; I wasn’t disappointed as the glistening sea view opened up as I descended towards the beach. After stopping along at various beaches along the way, exploring the rocks and the water, I arrived at the charming Ayioi Anargiroi Church. At first I was the sole visitor and enjoyed exploring the periphery of the church itself, picturesquely located alongside the beach. It wasn’t until one of many minibuses pulled up that I realised there was also a cave down the stairwell that appeared to lead to the beach which I had avoided as it was getting battered with waves. After letting everyone take their turns to enter the cave – I was aware that they would have a tight schedule I ventured downwards and entered the cave; only later did I learn that the cave was dedicated to Saints Kosmos and Damianos and that the cave contains holy water. Maybe that’s why some were so keen to descend and others to avoid!
Cyprus abounds with cats but most are actually well fed. This one was particularly friendly.
Tourists posing for photos at Ayioi Anargiroi Church
The steps down to the cave and sea.
Another view of Ayioi Anargiroi Church before the tourist buses arrived.
Agio Saranta Chapel
Whilst Ayia Napa offers a plethora of enticing restaurants in picturesque locations near the beach, purchasing basic fruit and vegetables for use at home presented a challenge during my stay. Enquiring around, I was told that you needed to go to further afield, to Protoras (a 15 minute drive). Whilst planning my route for a day trip to Protaras, I noticed a cave church on google maps, which appeared to be dead centre between Ayia Napa and Protoras so without too much planning, I keyed it into my phone and took off. Hire cars are marked with a red number plate, maybe so that other drivers can be sympathetic to our driver errors, or to mark as the idiot learners, and I noticed another hire car, driving closely behind me as suddenly the sealed road turned into a rocky dusty road with what was probably the white bentonite clay spraying all over my and the other hire car’s exterior. This was a moment of terror as hire cars are not covered for driving on unsealed roads! Nearing my destination, the next part of the trip would have meant driving down a rocky road more suited to a four-wheel drive so I pulled over to find myself around threatening ‘Keep out’ signs. Seeing a happy looking tourist emerging from the hill, I decided to give it a go, and walked the 15 or so minutes down the hill towards what I hoped was the church, as there was no signage. I passed by bee boxes and rugged landscape before I saw a parked car and indeed the glimpse of the church almost hidden within chunky rock. Only two other women, apparently doing a photo shoot were in the church at the time.
The steps towards Agio Saranta Chapel
The uneven staircase led me to the blue and white entrance door. Inside, like most Orthodox churches, were ancient icons, liturgical items and candles placed in the crevices of the stone walls. Looking upwards was the only light emitting through the dome like cupola.
Inside Agio Saranta Chapel.
I learnt later that the church was dedicated to the forty martyrs of Sebaste, a group of Roman soldiers who became martyrs for their Christian faith. The name Saranta is believed to link to both the forty martyrs and to forty stalagmites on the ceiling of the cave.
Its uniqueness has managed to earn it a spot in Daily Mail’s article of the quirkiest churches in the world to visit as well as Huffington Post’s piece on mysterious cave churches around the globe.
My view from Agio Saranta Chapel
Just outside the church. The poor 'lambs'!
Church of Profitis Elias in Protoras
After visiting the tiny, secluded Agio Saranta Chapel cave church, I found the Church of Profitis Elias/Ilias in Protaras much easier to locate. Despite its historic appearance, the chapel was built in 1984 and was built on the site of another smaller Byzantine chapel. From the ground, the church was barely visible as it has been built on top of rock which was sourced to appear like the original. I ascended the 156 steep stairs to the top, unfortunately not something everyone would be able to do. The prevalence of churches named after Profitis Ilias (the Prophet Elijah) is due to him being the main saint honoured in Cyprus. As the story goes, the reason for so many of them being on hills is that Elijah had been a sailor who had nearly drowned too many times, so he walked with his oar until he found mountains to live in, where no one had heard of the sea. A local had described his oar as a piece of wood and that was when he knew he was in the mountains. There is a Feast Day celebration dedicated to the Prophet on July 20th.
The stone encrusted Church of Profitis Elias
Steps and more steps!
Icons inside the Church of Profitis Elias
The reward for ascending the 150 or so steps is the stunning view of Protoras.
Next to the church I noticed many trees decorated with ribbons, covid masks and photos. These are Remembrance Trees, honouring those that have died. You can also tie a ribbon to the tree to make a wish.
One of several wishing/ Remembrance trees
Poignant messages on the Remembrance tree.
Like many Orthodox Churches, the interior was filled with icons and frescos.
Ayia Thekla
Driving in Cyprus has many benefits especially appreciated by Australians: there is far less traffic; driving distances between main cities and towns are very short; the island is tiny compared to Australia so you won’t need eight to eleven hours between major cities, more like an hour or less; you can drive on the left side: the country was once a British colony, and like other former British colonies, they continue to drive on the left; there are many delightful small towns you can stop off along the way, either planned or spontaneous, enticed by the ubiquitous brown tourism signs alerting the tourist of an interesting church, monument or heritage site, usually (but not always) written in English. Whilst planning my trip from Ayia Napa to Nicosia, I noticed a church on google maps, not far from Ayia Napa and thought it worth a visit, especially with the ease of having a rental car. As I have come to expect, Google Maps didn’t quite get it right and I pulled up at an empty carpark heading towards a private hotel and pool. Most resorts are empty in April, so I continued on and walked across the rugged beach rocks with the church in sight. With only a lone fisherman to my left I found myself the only visitor to this renowned blue and white church. It was only as I got closer I noticed a miniature version of the church down the path further; this lead to a grotto like cave church that I needed to stoop down to enter. There was evidence of man however in the lit incense throughout the chapel. Further down the path were more caves, sadly, one of them appeared to be the dwelling of a homeless person. The cave church was known as the catacomb of Ayia Thekla and legend has it that early Christians from the 4th century transformed the cave into a place of worship before the new church was built. The cave church was dedicated to Saint Thecla, a supposed virgin from what is now Konya in Turkey. Thecla was engaged to Thamyris, but after hearing Apostle Paul preach, she decided to remain a virgin and follow the missionary from place to place. From this she was sent to be burnt to the stake (by her parents!) but she was saved by a storm and subsequently saved from being thrown to the lions by the lionesses themselves. Thanks, sisters! Whilst Agia Paraskevi Church is listed as the oldest church in Cyprus, being built in the 11th century, perhaps the history books should be rewritten with this 4th century church taking the prize.
Entrance to the original cave church with Ayia Thekla on the hill.
Looking down onto the cave church. Note the air vents at the top.
Ayia Thekla interior
Ayia Thekla and a guardian cat.
Inside the original, narrow cave church.
And for a bit of low culture on your way west, you could always stop off at Xylofagou’s Big Potato only a few kilometres along from Ayia Thekla. Showing that all publicity is good publicity, the media latched onto the phallic nature of the potato culture, especially when it was felled after a New Year’s Eve prank. ‘, Cyprus' Big Potato can’t stay erect after rough night’ and ‘Erect Big Potato in Cyprus gets hard laughs’ featuring as headlines in the local online newsletter: knews.kathimerini.com.cy
The landmark was ‘erected’ in honour of the area's elongated spuds and locals believed that ridicule on social media was good publicity for the community. Australia, not a stranger to big things, also has a Big Potato, this one in a horizontal pose, in the tiny town of Robertson, in South of New South Wales.
The Big Potato, restored to its former glory.
References:
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/cyprus/articles/the-most-beautiful-churches-in-ayia-napa-protaras/