The Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum, one of Baku's architectural masterpieces
‘Um, do you sell beer?’ I innocently enquired, preparing myself for a curt rejection. ‘Of course! Whaay nuuut?’ the waitress joyfully responded, waving me in, whilst humming to the upbeat music in the background. I had chosen to dine out at Pancho’s, a Mexican Restaurant opposite the my upstairs apartment, in central Baku, Azerbaijan. Having recently travelled to Türkiye and in the past Bosnia and Herzegovina, both Muslim majority countries, I had experienced the prevalence of alcohol-free restaurants and perusing the streets of Baku during peak hour I had noticed that the locals’ drinks of choice were soft drink, coffee or the most popular drink of all in Azerbaijan, tea. Although Azerbaijan is not Türkiye, they are neighbours and allies and do share some similarities, but from first glance, and in Baku, the capital city only, I found Azerbaijanis to be more casual and less demonstrable of their Muslim faith: few women wore hair coverings of any kind and there were barely any mosques to speak of (and hardly a call to prayer), unexpected considering 95% of the population identify as Muslim. Azerbaijan is considered a secular country, and in Article 48 of its Constitution it ensures the Liberty of Worship[1] to everyone. Everyone has a right to choose any faith, to adopt any religion or to not practice any religion, to express one's view on the religion and to spread it. The law of the Republic of Azerbaijan (1992) "On freedom of faith" ensures the right of any human being to determine and express his view on religion and to execute this right[2].
Government House in Post Baroque style, built between 1936 and 1952 with numerous renovations
Hands up if you’ve never heard of Azerbaijan! I say this as, on numerous times I have been met with silence when indicating my intention to visit the country alongside the other sixteen countries on this trip. As an Australian of a certain age, it is hard to imagine living in a country that has changed its name in my lifetime, but this is a reality for all countries of the former Soviet Union (and of course many other countries elsewhere) and it wasn’t until 1991 that the Azerbaijan Soviet Socialist Republic (1920-1991) had its name shortened back to Azerbaijan. My school geography lessons had been limited to learning about the San Andreas fault line (which made me more fearful of visiting California than anywhere else in the world), and a research task on Mongolia (only because I was given this country to research by the teacher) and I only learned about other countries through stamp collecting (in which I discovered that the ‘Trucial States’ which later became the United Arab Emirates published the best stamps), so I had arrived in Azerbaijan with limited knowledge of the country except for a flick through some library guide books and a Johanna Lumley Made for TV documentary on the Silk Road.
Some of the most intriguing buildings in Baku are hotels such as this one, combining traditional Azerbaijan designs with domed architecture .
At Pancho’s I was ushered to sit at the bar, alongside another young woman, perhaps as I was solo, and perhaps as she was drinking beer, as she seat-danced to the music. To the right of me, another sole diner, a young man was awarded the single table and, after ordering our meals, we both received our drinks, a glass of rose for me (it’s not often you get rose on the menu so I eschewed the beer) and for him, a blue cocktail, subverting my expectation of the stereotype of drinks chosen by particular genders. I heard voices in both English and other languages, probably Azerbaijani or Russian, I was not expert enough to determine. I had researched and been warned that English is not widely spoken in Azerbaijan, but I found that most people I encountered spoke some. Certainly, my BOLT[3] driver from earlier that day made a point of repeating ‘So you don’t speak Russian’ as if disappointed, not that it mattered as you can be completely conversation free with BOLT, as it’s all tied to your credit card. And the older female museum guards tended to use limited English but knew how to say ‘Up’ when indicating where to go next (I was being chastised for walking into a room in the wrong order). My booking.com apartment host, however, spoke very good English and only struggled to articulate the word for ‘microwave’ (I had thought of saying ‘mickrowarvay’ in Nigella Lawson ‘poshing it up’ style, but thought the concept might be lost on him).
Besh Barmag (BeÅŸbarmaq) the site of history and massive bird migration
Once I spent four days in Baku I needed to ensure that my impression of the country would not only be through its capital city, so I pillaged my budget and booked one of the most quintessential tours into the landscape: Quba and Khinaliq Village and Candy Cane Mountains. This tour takes the participant to a number of sites in the north of Azerbaijan where there are ‘dramatic mountains and a high concentration of oxygen’, enroute to the highest point in the country, Khinaliq Village.
Candy Cane Mountain, part of the Greater Caucasus mountain range
Candy Cane Mountain, looking down on our tour buses.
View of Candy Cane Mountains with a Tour Leader demonstrating his violin skills.
Our first stop was at the (unofficially named) Candy Cane Mountains. These mountains are made from shale or layers of clay and are in the Khizi and Siyazan districts of the country. The mountains were dubbed Candy Cane Mountains by travel author Mark Elliott in his guidebook Azerbaijan with Excursions to Georgia. I only learnt later that there are belemnites and fossils, especially of squid from the Cretaceous period which can be seen on the surface. I immediately recognised that the candy cane colour was actually iron oxide which I remember from my ceramics days. The pink seen in tourist brochures is somewhat enhanced, but it is still spectacular. Having hiked mountains elsewhere, I found walking up the steep hills of Candy Cane Mountains much easier as the clay is not slippery; maybe things would be different if it had rained. Towards the end of our stay here, our Tour Leader, a big and bubbly young man who has anglicised his name to Tim promised us a surprise. The treat was in the form of a short violin performance on the mountain by the other tour leader (there were two minibuses for two groups). Once back on the bus, I teased Tim about whether he would be performing for us on the next stop and he produced his phone and played a song he had sung and recorded on, quite the talent!
Opposite a pit stop in the distance we could see a significant mountain, Besh Barmag (Beşbarmaq). This mountain is considered a holy place and there is a mosque that many visitors stop to pray at. It has also been nicknamed the ‘Five Fingered Mountain’. The area around Besh Barmag is also important as a globally important bird migration bottleneck. It is estimated that 2-3 million birds of 320 different species pass the area in autumn and there are numerous volunteers that count them.
Tim’s palpable excitement upon arrival at the next stop, Gachrash Forest was initially lost on one of the other participants, Claudia from Germany and me. As we arrived at a green forest he grabbed all our phones and filmed the ascent through the tunnel of green deciduous trees (which I later deleted; don’t tell Tim!). There was an option for us to take part in a traditional lunch at a ‘farmer’s hut’ but it was a case of all or nothing and, as one couple out of our party of six weren’t interested, we had optional lunch at Gachrash Forest instead. Unfortunately there really wasn’t anywhere to hike to as the tracks were blocked but for me it was a welcome opportunity to purchase coffee and baklava in the local café. Claudia and I eventually concluded that green forests such as these are probably quite rare in Azerbaijan which shifts quickly from desert to green mountains, which is why it is probably so popular with nationals and our Tour Leader.
Eagle monument in the Guba region
The windy river in the Guba region near Khinalug
After a few more stops, the minibus climbed its steepest ascent and almost burnt out the engine at one point when it was stuck behind another car that had decided to stop in the middle of the road. We had arrived at Khinalug, (sometimes known as Xinaliq) special for two reasons: the location is said to be the highest point in Azerbaijan (around 2,300 meters high) and the people are an ancient group of people with their own language and customs. They are Sunni Muslims and there is a mosque in the town. Their appearance is quite distinct and different to other Azerbaijanis. When we arrived, the children came rushing to the bus, firstly to try to sell their woollen socks but they also seemed genuinely interested in showing us around, running down the steep hills and playing with the flock of goats nearby. Tim was obviously a big hit with the kids and when we were about to make tracks they begged to ride in the mini bus. So around six of them all piled into the bus with us, the youngest one sitting on Tim’s lap as they joined us down the hill. One of the girls, who appeared to be around ten, seemed to take charge and bossed the other ones around; she had aspirations to go to university and live in Baku and this pleased me to know that they weren’t necessarily limited to living in Khinalug forever and that families are usually large.
Landscape in the in the Guba region near Khinalug
A Khinalug boy showing off by running down the steep hill.
Two Khinalug girls playing with one of the goats in the village
Khinalug village
The village gave me much to ponder as we headed downhill along the narrow roads back towards Baku. Later I learnt that the Khinalug are mainly involved in sheep breeding and traditional crafts and have a traditional weaving technique and I regretted not purchasing some of their socks, pushed eagerly by the children. There are numerous day trips possible from Baku and many willing street sellers for the tours.
Landscape in the Guba region
I was actually grateful to be sold a tour this way as the website versions I encountered were only offering private tours which become expensive for a solo traveller. The seller at Old Town had me with the first picture. Despite me saying ‘I’m interested!’ he went on to do the spiel and even offered a free night tour; initially I said that I didn’t need to do the night tour having visited most of those sites to which he waxed lyrical about the guide and the information I would glean. So I dragged myself out to do the night tour and I am so glad that I did. In this group, most were Russians and the only other English speaker was a Korean woman (Li, I found out), so our guide did each spiel in Russian first and then English for the two of us. On the night, the young guide introduced himself as Russell, mentioning that his real name is Ruzlan. I asked him which he preferred, thinking it a shame that he needed to anglicise his distinctive, name. Once he learnt I was Australian, trying to build a connection, he went on to say that he was a big fan of Russell Crowe, to which I nodded politely, not offering any opinion. Then he countered this with saying ‘Actually I don’t like him anymore; I met him and said I was a big fan of his and asked if I could have a photo with him’, to which Rusty’s security guard pushed him out of the way, ruining his prospects. I then told him that Crowe is actually a New Zealander, to which he paused and came back with: ‘Mel Gibson, he’s Australian isn’t he? I’m a big fan….’. The night tour included many up-close moments with the iconic Flaming Towers and an explanation of the three different light shows that evolve over the external LED lights. The fire theme of the Flame Towers are a reference to the ancient fire-obsessed religion of Zoroastrianism, which was popular in Azerbaijan in pre-Christian and pre-Muslim times. The towers function as residential apartments, hotels and office blocks. At night the light show transitions from giant flames, the colours of the Azerbaijani flag, and a figure waving a flag (an athlete, Russell thought).
Baku's Flame Towers at night: flame theme
Baku's Flame Towers at night: Azerbaijani flag theme
Baku's Flame Towers at night: with human figure waving a flag
Also on the top of the same hill we visited Martyrs Lane, a cemetery and memorial dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Black January 1990 and in the First Nagorno-Karabakh War of 1988–1994, during which Russell spoke in non-objective terms about the Armenian genocide of Azerbaijanis in the 1990s. The eternal flame is huge and the area overlooks Baku for impressive views.
Flame cauldron at Martyrs Lane, Baku
Heading down the stairs we headed along the boulevard to the indoor arena, The Crystal Palace, which, strangely has not reopened yet (because of covid, we were told) but for which Baku holds much pride for hosting Eurovision 2012 having won the competition 2011. From the outside, the changing light show seemed in keeping with the rest of Baku at night which puts on quite a light show. There is no need for a White Night in Baku as it happens every night!
The changing colours of the Crystal Palace
In-between navigating the intense traffic in Baku (hint: look out for underpasses), I visited numerous museums. Baku has cemented itself on the world map for postmodern, sculptural architecture with buildings such as the Carpet Museum and the Heydar Aliev Museum both of which I visited. Other museums were housed in older buildings which may be worth a visit for the story of the building itself. Intrigued by the story of the Museum Centre, I located it in a very central position alongside the Seaside Boulevard. The massive Neo-Classical building was built in 1960 as a branch of the Moscow Lenin Museum, hence its previous title of Lenin Museum and its purpose to house Lenin memorabilia including more than 9,000 objects, photographs, manuscripts, maps and models. Check out this image of its appearance with gigantic Lenin banners. After the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991 it was thought to change the name and purpose, and now it’s the Museum Centre, short for Museum Centre of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism and it houses a number of departments and museums; when I visited, not many of them were open but I did visit some art exhibitions of 20th century art by Azerbaijani artists. Eerily, I seemed to be the only other visitor in the museum at the time despite the crowds of people outside.
The Neo-Corinthian columns of the Museum Centre, once the Lenin Centre
Hammer and Sickle Soviet Frieze above the doorways of the Museum Centre
Craving contemporary art I then walked some distance across town to the Modern Art Museum, taking in the sight of grand department buildings such as the Government Building before arriving at the museum, which was filled, salon style with mostly garish paintings and sculptures alongside the numerous diagonal lines and walls of the interior architecture which gave a chaotic aesthetic. It was an experiment in architecture that I am not sure has worked as I found the exit hard to find despite the relative small size of the building.
The dynamic architecture and display panels at the Modern Art Museum
Checking the distance, I sallied forward, finally arrived at the jewel in the crown of Baku, the Heydar Aliyev Centre, a masterpiece of architecture and a thrilling experience to behold on the inside. I recommend allowing three hours to really enjoy the interior – and to spend time trying to climb the infinity wall on the outside. This is a place that the public enjoy being inside and out as evidenced by the sight of people enjoying the lawns at the front and using the building as a wedding photo backdrop.
Detail of the Heydar Aliyev Centre building
Front view of the Heydar Aliyev Centre
The museum was designed by an Iraqi-British female architect Dame Zaha Hadid and it focuses on curved flowing angles inside and out which would normally make for a challenge as an art/museum space but in this case it works. The curves are designed to mirror the landscape’s natural topography. The building was named for the former ruler of Azerbaijan, Heydar Aliyev, and commissioned by his son, Ilham, who became president after his father's death in 2003. One of the spaces in the museum is dedicated to the former leader and the exhibition, alongside the naming of numerous other spaces in Baku after Aliyev give the impression that he was a widely respected leader who led Azerbaijan into becoming the successful and secular country that it is now. The acceptance of the commission by Zaha Hadid Architects was not without controversy, however with representatives from Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch criticising the move and architecture critics questioned the UK granting its most prestigious architecture award to a building which memorialized a vicious Soviet dictator.[4]
Detail of Rashid Al Khalifa's Waves III, 2023, enamel on aluminium, Parametrics series
Given that the museum is the must-see site for visitors of Azerbaijan I liked how the first exhibition you view ascending the stairs (or escalator) was a very contemporary abstract one. The exhibition First Light by Bahraini artist Rashid Al Khalifa included beautiful but understated works that focus on nature; many of the works were created especially for the exhibition.
Architectural model of Flame Towers
One of the other spaces is devoted to architectural models of Baku and having enjoyed exploring the architecture of Baku on foot, I really enjoyed seeing the shape of each building in its entirety this way. I loved the way the theme of Azerbaijan continued through the museum with an exhibition of traditional stringed musical instruments, all works of art in themselves. Separate rooms enabled you to enjoy a virtual concert of these instruments alongside soulful traditional singing.
Traditional stringed instruments on display at the Heydar Aliyev Centre
The top floor included an exhibition of Surrealist icon Salvador Dali and at first my thought was ‘Not another Dali exhibition’, but this one focused on his smaller, more delicate works on paper, executed later in life, which showed the broad scope of his practice.
Off to one side of the asymmetrical building was an entire space devoted to carpets. These ones were more contemporary than those at the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum (which I had previously visited) but were presented in a more audience friendly manner.
Unfortunately, I was too exhausted to circumnavigate the entire building when I left, so ordered a Bolt taxi back to town. On the opposite side of the building people are often seen challenging themselves playfully to walk up the curves of the building before they fall, the perfect Instagram moment.
Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum is also one of Baku’s best-known pieces of architecture with the exterior of the building having the appearance of a rolled carpet. This building was designed by Austrian architect Franz Janz, and it replaced the previous building which was demolished to make way for the new building in a controversial move given its historical significance. It doesn’t take as long to see the objects as the Heydar Aliyev Centre and is located near some other interesting buildings down on the promenade.
Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum Interior room
Embroidery on display at the Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum
Side view of the Carpet Museum with the omnipresent Flame Towers in the background
My Tips for visiting Azerbaijan
Take one or more day trips out of the city; the landscape is spectacular; the history is significant and the tour leaders are knowledgeable and entertaining. My tour was with Smiles, an Azerbaijani company.
Staying safe on the street: the traffic in Baku is immense and the pedestrian crossings are few; look out for the underpasses; sometimes you need to walk a block to find one.
Getting around: there is a Metro line but I never took it; I walked almost everywhere and occasionally used Bolt as it is so cheap.
Food: I found food to be generally inexpensive unless you dine at fancy restaurants. A good cheap takeaway is good old döner kebab. Don’t be put off by the lack of English on the signs. Usually the man (they’re always men) will say ‘chicken’ just to make sure you know what you’re getting. For 2 manat (that’s AUD$1.80) you can get a freshly cooked bread filled with chicken and salad with a sauce with a distinctive herb flavour: delicious! Just look on Google Maps and find a nearby park and you’ve got the perfect lunch (sorry vegetarians, I didn’t see a veg option). When Li (from Korea) and I wandered the city after our night tour she pointed out a restaurant that she had dined in that charged her 40 manat; maybe it was brilliant but you don’t always have to spend much. Supermarkets sell packaged salads; they look ugly but taste delicious! Don’t drink the tap water; purchase (or maybe boil/ filter).
Admire the buildings! The architecture of Baku is stunning, whether old or new. You can visit 12th century archaeology in the old town, visit stunning tiled mosques, see late 20th century socialist housing and experience firsthand some of the world’s most cutting-edge contemporary architecture.
UNESCO World Heritage listed 12th Century Maiden Tower
At the time of writing, Australians (and I assume many other countries) required a visa, but this was easy to do online. I always save my PDFs to Books and/or Wallet on my phone which makes it easier to produce when asked at the airport or borders.
Further Reading/ References
[1]Equality and Human Rights Commission https://www.equalityhumanrights.com/en/human-rights-act/article-9-freedom-thought-belief-and-religion [2] Religion in Azerbaijan Administrative Department of the President of the Republic of Azerbaijan Presidential Library Azerbaijan State Symbols and attributes https://files.preslib.az/projects/remz/pdf_en/atr_din.pdf [3] A mobility ride App similar to Uber [4] The Independent, 1 July 2014, p. 15